Rhone Wine
While Bordeaux and Burgundy tend to attract the majority of the attention of the world's fine wine buyers, it would be a huge error to ignore the wines of the Rhone valley. Here over the last few vintages we have seen unparalleled consistency and quality yet with prices that still seem reasonable. As part of our role as specialised wine merchant for private clients, our team at H&H Bancroft visits the region each year to taste and buy the region's finest wines for our customers. Possibly not the most onerous task but one we take very seriously!
Below is an abridged diary of our travels in the Rhone last year (the full version is available on our blog at here):
“November marks the annual trip to the Rhône; this year to taste the 2007 vintages before they are bottled and shipped next year.
The first morning, fortified with croissants and coffee, we headed directly to François Villard's estate on the steep slopes of the northern Rhône. The 2007 whites were showing superbly with classic Viognier nose and wonderful freshness. The 06 reds were also impressive but in need of longer ageing to fully express themselves.
We then travelled straight to Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the iconic vineyards of Clos du Caillou. Bruno Gaspar proudly showed the latest wines including the perennial favourites, Bouquet des Garrigues and the resplendent Châteauneuf-du-Papes. The Bouquet des Garrigues shone and the Châteauneufs showed an unbelievable level of complexity for their age. A justifiably proud winemaker!
The Mistral winds that blow from the northwest are invaluable to winemakers as they dry the grapes and can prevent rot, something Monsieur Gaspar was keen to point out. However, to those used to the mild, drizzly blusters of the UK, the Mistral is a glacial and formidable force that can make the short dash from the cuverie to the car seem like an epic trek across Siberia.
Next on the hit-list was Domaine de Cristia with the talented, young winemaker Baptiste Grangeon and his effervescent sister, Dominique. The wines are very modern in style with plump, juicy fruit, generous flavours and are the worthy recipients of much lauded praise from many wine critics. We were treated to a long 3-course lunch while the 2005 vintage of their awesome Châteauneuf-du-Pape Renaissance flowed liberally. It beggars belief how any work actually gets done in these parts, but we were grateful for their kind hospitality.
Following a strong coffee we got back on the road and, somewhat tardily, arrived at Domaine Grand Veneur for our final winery tour of the day with the charming Christophe Jaume. The 07s are classic Châteuneuf-du-Pape – dark, brambly fruit with complex smoky, gamey nuances. The white Châteauneuf also showed itself to be a bit of hidden gem with complex peach melba, citrus and mineral layers and a creamy hazelnut finish.
Up early again the next morning we set off east to Domaine Santa Duc in Gigondas. Here we were met by the irrepressible Yves Gras who leapt and jumped across the barrels of his cellar with the unbridled exuberance of a spring lamb. The wines were equally as exhilarating with the Gigondas' showing tight-knit flavours of blackberry fruit, garrigue herbs and intense spice. The basic Côtes du Rhône Quatre Terres also stood out for its mouth-watering juiciness and soft, yielding tannins.”